Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Khlong Toei Market

Went to the Khlong Toei market on Sunday morning. The guidebook said it was “interesting” and “authentic” and it was certainly both. It is not too far from the house – just south of Benjakiti Park – so a relatively quick walk. It reminded me of the Haymarket in Boston – only a lot bigger. Like the Haymarket, it is a fresh market with only food vendors. And the food was certainly fresh – so fresh some of it was still alive. There were live chickens for sale and live fish – catfish and sea bream – swimming in large aluminum tubs. Except for one catfish, which had managed to jump out of the pan and onto the walkway. Glad I noticed that before I stepped on it. And very glad I had decided to wear shoes and not sandals.

Many of the customers were buying large quantities of food – either for their restaurants or to then resell themselves from their own food stalls or pushcarts. There were stalls selling dried fish, crabs, pork and chicken. (I don’t think I saw any beef for sale at all.) Not sure how hygienic any of this was, since the meat just seemed to be sitting out. Maybe it was on ice underneath? (Let’s go with that.)





And eggs – lots of eggs for sale.


One section was dedicated to fruit vendors. These red fruits with the green spikes are called “dragon fruits.” (There is a Thai word, of course – sounds like “geow mung korn.”) From the outside, they look like colored bits of armor, but the fruit inside is white, with black speckles, and is sweet. Thais serve it in fruit salad, along with papaya and cantaloupe.


These all-red ones are called “champuu.” I don’t think there is an English world – maybe because the Thai word sounds like our “shampoo” so we can actually say it?!


But the most interesting part of the market was just watching the people. This is definitely not a market for tourists – I spent about 30 minutes or so there and never once saw another foreigner. Most people were Thai, with a few Chinese and Indians as well. Definitely felt like a “farang” there. And while I’m thinking about it, that’s one odd thing – “farang” is the Thai word for “foreigner” but it is also the Thai word for “guava.” Not sure I understand the connection. But according to Wikipedia, “farang” comes from an Indo-Persian word “farangi,” which means foreigner. And, the guava was brought to Thailand by Portuguese traders in the 1600s. So I guess “farangs” brought “farangs” to Thailand.

Here are a few pictures of the people. I especially liked the woman in the green hat, buying eggs. You gotta love her sense of style – who says you can’t wear a red-and-white shirt with a green, floral hat? With earflaps, no less. Guess you can never be too careful about catching a cold.

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