An odd thing happened on the way home from work today. Without really paying attention, I found myself at the Asoke Skytrain stop. Which is right – I go by there every day. But what was odd was that I got there without thinking about it. I left the office, crossed Soi 23 with its busy motorcycle taxi traffic, walked through the arcade under the Citibank building, into the Sukhumvit metro stop, came out the other side, and took the Asoke Skytrain elevator – all without thinking about it. This is only my fourth day of work, so it’s hardly like it’s instinct already. But it is interesting how quickly your mind adapts to new surroundings.
I’m also starting to notice more of the little shops and restaurants in the neighborhood. This is the same way it happened when we visited Bangkok 20 years ago. The first two days it felt like hell on earth – hot and humid, sidewalks jammed with people and food stalls, non-stop traffic and noise, and families of three and four balancing on a motorcycle. Just getting across the street in one piece felt like a major achievement. But after three days, you could see the beauty and the serenity within the chaos. Bangkok became a wonderful place to be.
Twenty years later, Bangkok has built pedestrian overpasses, the Skytrain, and a subway – all of which have helped make being a pedestrian here more enjoyable. And tonight, as I walked along Sukhumvit Road, I noticed a small Chinese coffee shop, several teak furniture stores, and a few restaurants I’d like to try. They’ve been there all along, of course, but I’m starting to get into the rhythm of Bangkok and to notice the hidden charms in what initially seems like a relentless and oppressive setting.
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